Day 14 – Santiago de Compostela (12km)

We arrived in Santiago at 10:30 after hiking the last 12km! First glimpse of the cathedral. A couple of funny sights as we walked – bread delivery (we saw loafs in bags tied to doors) – and a coke delivery in the middle of nowhere when a van pulled over to a group of pilgrims and threw open its doors to them.

The way was crowded but eventually became less noisy until we reached the old town. Winding, narrow roads with many shops, and many tourists and pilgrims. The cathedral’s square is massive. And busy. We were emotional for our long journey. After contemplating the significance of it all, we headed to the Pilgrim Office to get our compostelas. There was a huge line. Here we started to see people we recognized, and watched other happy reunions. With our documents, and Don’s satisfaction with having completed something so meaningful, we bought bread and manchego cheese for lunch and ate in a sunny corner of the square.

A few hiccups with accommodation but we finally found something just outside the old town. We then went to grab a beer. We ran into the Icelanders, who told us about the 7:30pm mass in the cathedral. After our beer, we bypassed the crowds at the front waiting to enter and touch St James’ foot, by going through the side door for the service. It was all in Spanish but a special end to our walk. In the middle of the photo is the incense burner or butofumerio. We got to see and smell as it was lit and swung during our mass – which was a surprise as there apparently needs to be enough donations for that to happen. It was swung very high up and filled the space with a smoky frankincense. Eight men operated the butafumerio, which weighs something like 60kilos!

After, we exited straight into an orchestra playing in the square beside. It was surreal. Walking 318km over two weeks is tough. You quickly notice every body part that isn’t working perfectly. But the things you see and experience are extraordinary. And the sense of accomplishment makes you feel powerful.